Pitti Filati: young talents of ITS TAM interpret the “waistcoat”, sustainable, gender fluid and seasonless iconic garment, using the yarns of Marchi & Fildi and Filidea collections
During the 90th edition of Pitti Filati at the Marchi & Fildi and Filidea booths, original garments will be on show which have been developed by 2nd-year students of the course for Higher Technician for Design and Development of Knitwear Products at the ITS TAM (Higher Institute for Textiles, Clothing and Fashion) in Biella.
The project’s primary garment is the waistcoat, offering visitors to the booths garments capable of interpreting the yarns in a contemporary way and embodying the key values of the brands Marchi & Fildi, ECOTEC® and Filidea.
Rediscovered by fashion in recent collections, the waistcoat is a unisex, seasonless garment, and constitutes an “easy”, basic garment for all types of interpretation; a creative representation of the values of modern fashion research:
Sustainable – Gender exchange – Seasonless
With the supervision of Fausto Caletti, the stylist that has been developing the yarns collection of Marchi & Fildi and Filidea, and the ITS TAM professors, students have created the waistcoats in knitwear using yarns from the Spring/Summer 2023 collections in the colours included in the overview cards. During their creative work, the students measured themselves not only in terms of the ideation of the finished garments, but also the total number of the steps for their execution within the framework of the project.
Every waistcoat on show will be numbered and identified with the name of the student who created it. Coming into the booth, it will be possible to admire all of them.
Filidea fashion yarns
The Filidea Spring/Summer 2023 collection consolidates its position in the medium-high sector for knitwear yarns.
The essential elements for the brand identity are confirmed as being at the centre of its value offer: the choice of natural fibres and biodegradable blends, the attention to the performance of the yarns together with the sensibility of the fashion world and the environmental sustainability of the whole supply chain.
All the yarns of the collection are dyed in the internal dyeing mill of the Marchi & Fildi Group, which has a low environmental impact. The Study Life Cycle Assessment carried out in 2020 demonstrates an average of -48% water used for each kg of yarn dyed, -43% in the steam consumption and -57% of energy use, in comparison to a traditional plant.
The offer revolves around three families of cotton, linen and silk blends, confirming the references of the latest summer season, the presence of GOTS-certified cottons and the innovative blends such as the blend of silk and Bemberg™ Cupro, the GRS-certified regenerated cellulose.
Fine and extra-fine yarns prevail, as they are ideal for the knitwear that takes its style from sophistication and formal simplicity. The exception is Zoran, a cotton tape which is the perfect solution for creative structures and fancies.
The colour card maintains its elegant, classy orientation towards the seasonal colours of nature, with sandy, earthy tones, browns and warm flamed tones fading into beige and neutral hues. Stock availability for samples has been increased. Jacques, a compact cotton with a soft, caressing hand in two counts, fine and extra-fine, and characterised by an opaque look to transmit a stylishly natural atmosphere is to be found amongst the new items with which the Filidea offer has been enhanced. Albert proposes a refined summer blend of cotton and linen with a natural, light hand and uneven textures with the slight irregularities typical of linen. Also new is the combination of silk and cotton in Philippe, in a skilful balance of exquisiteness, lustre and natural feeling. The new yarns in the collection are distinguished by the choice of the most topical colours: trendy, saturated and intense tones which even go as far as fluo.
Marchi & Fildi fashion yarns
The orientation towards yarns which are sustainable, certified and using circular economy processes takes on ever more importance in the collection.
ECOTEC® technology, which uses pre- and post-consumer waste products to create yarns of superior quality,characterises a number of proposals in the collection, for the most part with GRS certification. Alongside the bestsellers in cotton-based blends (Nilo, Victoria, Pegasus, Polaris) or Lenzing™ Ecovero™ viscose (Palatio), some novelties stand out for using linen as the main ingredient.
Acapulco (viscose, linen and acrylic fibres) and Lima (ECOTEC® cotton, linen and acrylic fibres) are both characterised by a naturally faded look and the elegant worn effect of the surface which enhances the rusticity of the linen. The combination of the different fibres makes it possible to create a light streaky effect for a delicately uneven colour. The hand is natural and pleasant and the colour palette continues with the refined sun-faded effects and light plant colours: yellowed whites which turn into soft beiges, straw and sage green, delicate tones inspired by the inside of shells.
Marchi & Fildi
Marchi & Fildi S.p.a was established in 2007 through the fusion of the mills Filatura Marchi and Fildi, owned by the Marchi and Dissegna families. Filidea is the youngest company within the Group, and was set up in 2008.
The Marchi & Fildi Group proposal for the fashion world consists of linear or circular knitting, weaving and hosiery. The distinguishing element in the collections is the focus on sustainability, which starts with the selection of the raw materials and finishes with the ECOTEC® brand owned by Marchi & Fildi. The Filidea brand presents an assortment of natural, sustainable and certified yarns designed for the high-quality market sector.
Filidea is also specialised in the production and development of technical yarns intended for protective and work clothing, for the automotive industry and various industrial uses.
The modern dyeing department and the pilot research and development facility allow the Group to create new yarns for the collections, alongside the collaboration with universities and research centres and with various partners for the development of specialised projects.
Today, with the entry of the third generation of entrepreneurs, Marchi & Fildi S.p.a is a group of mills which is known internationally and which has a constant rate of growth.
ECOTEC® is the patented production process developed by Marchi & Fildi to create new yarns by upcycling the pre- and post-consumer cut-offs. The ECOTEC® range ensures a reduced environmental footprint: up to 46.9% savings in terms of energy consumption, up to 46.6% reduction in terms of CO2 and up to 61.6% reduction in terms of water consumption along the whole supply chain.