by Jürg Rupp, Fong’s Industries Co., Ltd. Hong Kong

Exim Knits Private Ltd., which was founded in 1993 as a sub supplier to the Indian apparel industry, mainly produces knits. Today, the company’s growth is demonstrated by the vertical integration of its knitting shop, a dyehouse, finishing, printing, embroidery, and sewing shops. The clothing production centre is located in Avanashi near Tirupur, knitting,dyeing and finishing in Perundurai.

 The Executive Management consists of Mr. P. Padmanabhan, Director, who has a masters degree in agriculture and in complete control of Production, and the interview Director, Mr. Ajay Doshi who himself is an MBA. Both work closely together and are primarily responsible for the tremendous progress at Exim Knits. The Exim Group workforce numbers 580, of whom around 150 work in the dyehouse and the remainder in the make-up area. A visibly cheerful Mr. Ajay Doshi showed us the exceptional dyehouse, which offers room for further expansion and was more than willing to explain why Exim has opted exclusively for AIRFLOW technology.

A gradual offensive

The orientation of the company as a sub supplier to the Indian clothing industry was maintained until 1999, when a major change of direction was initiated. According to Mr. Ajay Doshi, “This re-think actually commenced at the ITMA, when we asked ourselves why couldn’t we become successful producers? The preparations required an enormous effort and took around 10 months, but then we started production with our knitting, sewing and printing shops. Business got off to a good start and therefore we decided to install our own dyehouse.”

Exim is now active in the apparel, knitting, dyeing and finishing areas, as well as the printing field. Some 3,500 - 4,000 kg of knits are manufactured daily on 11 knitting machines, of which 80% are required for in-house needs, while the balance is sold to third parties. Mr. Ajay Doshi, “With the new dyehouse, we can see the influence of the dyeing on our knits, to precisely monitor the interaction between our knitting and dyehouse and thus have the whole process under control.” A modern dye and quality lab with all the important testing equipment is available for permanent quality checks.

Difficulties mastered

According to Mr. Ajay Doshi, the company’s beginnings were extremely difficult, “In 1993, we were faced with major obstacles such as the many quotas applying to numerous articles. Everything had to be outsourced and we were not really competitive. Moreover, ambitious entrepreneurs did not receive the levels of support that are currently available. Obtaining a loan was very problematic and the textile industry in our area lacked a lobby that would have supported us. All this has now altered.”

And what has been the biggest change? “Previously, we were the last to hear about problems. If there were difficulties, which generally related to quality, as the final link in the chain, we were frequently unable to act in time. This was especially annoying as quality is the most important factor, particularly when one is export-oriented. We were well aware of the fact that if we wanted to be really successful, the first step would involve product quality. No sooner said than done and this was the start of the re-think and the shift of direction that put us on the right road. With our current organisation we have everything under control, which corresponds with our corporate philosophy of zero-defect production, “no trial and error, just get it right first time!”

Ever faster, ever tougher

Company Director, Mr. Ajay Doshi, comes from Kolkata, but not from a textile background. “My father is in the jute business, but not for textile purposes. He was involved in the Company manufacturing Air filters, regulators and lubricator for Indian Market, which were installed in pneumatic devices. Then for family reasons, I paid a visit to Tirupur and interacted with Mr Padmanabhan with whom we enjoyed long term Family relations, and, where there are a large number of textile operations and somehow or other I developed a taste for the textile industry. All the pieces in the puzzle then gradually came together, with one leading to another, and today we have an extremely modern dyehouse in Tirupur with a possible capacity of 6,300 kg/day.”

Things are running smoothly at Exim Knits, “India in general and our company included possess great potential. We simply have to stay on the ball. Everything is getting faster and the delivery periods are becoming steadily shorter. In the past, our key accounts such as the French company, Auchan, purchased twice a year, but now there are 4-6 collections. We have to react quickly and flexibly to this shift in purchasing patterns, otherwise we will soon be out of the market. Our customers expect that the products be finished within eight weeks of the order receipt. Therefore, flexibility is the non plus ultra.”

And how about the work-life balance? Exim is continually growing and the affable Mr. Ajay Doshi is constantly on the move. We asked if he has any time for himself? With a disarming smile he replied, “Its all a question of organisation. I relax with reading, love cricket like all Indians and travel. This counteracts the stress of day-to-day working, which of course is a huge source of satisfaction to me, particularly when it is successful.”

100% Airflow dyehouse

Mr. Ajay Doshi describes his most important target group as being the large retail chains with their own brands. His company co-operates successfully with enterprises such as the French Auchan Group, as well as brands like “Levi’s” and “Pimkie”. 85% of company production is exported, mainly to Europe and primarily to France, Germany, Italy and Spain, but also to Poland and Russia. 100% cotton articles represent the company’s flagship market product, although these have recently been joined by blends.

According to Mr. Ajay Doshi, this is the reason why a modern and, above all, flexible dyehouse, is a basic prerequisite for success. The dyehouse at the Exim plant in Perundurai, only has aerodynamic dyeing machines of THEN-AIRFLOW® AFE 50, AFE 225, AFE 450 and a 4-chamber AFE 900 with TDS. This is because the THEN-DYEHOUSE SYSTEM (TDS) assumes the administration and organisation of the dyehouse. The system integrates both THEN and other brand products, as well as PC control systems, and hosts into a dyehouse system.

How did the contacts with THEN come about? Mr. Ajay Doshi, “The thought process to go for our own dyehouse started sometime in autumn 2004. Then I met with Mr. Harald Dörfer of THEN at our Tirupur factory. In December 2004 we travelled to the India ITME in Mumbai, where we visited the THEN stand. Our engineers were highly enthusiastic about the technical possibilities offered by the AIRFLOW® technology (see box) and then we had an opportunity to test undyed material on the machine. The economic advantages, which were practically identical with the ecological benefits, were outstanding and therefore things started to move relatively quickly. We met Werner Hübsch and Roland Adrion from THEN, who, with additional facts and the ideal layout, convinced us that this technology was just what we were looking for. In March/April 2005, the final decision to install our own dyehouse went hand in hand with the desire to purchase THEN machinery.”

Ecology and economy

Mr. Ajay Doshi names the main advantages of the THEN-AIRFLOW® machines as being flexibility, the short liquor ratio and absolute quality reproducibility. “The low water consumption and reduced dye volume requirement not only help us to keep costs down, but also provide the goods with improved form stability. The benefits are enormous, as we need 10% less dye, up to 30% fewer chemicals and a correspondingly smaller amount of salt.

Moreover, there are other positive points. Lower water consumption and the cut in dye consumption mean that wastewater volumes are also significantly reduced. In addition, the use of the THEN-AIRFLOW® short dyeing machines means that less steam is needed, which in view of current energy prices is an operating cost factor that should not be underestimated.”

A promising outlook

And were the company’s expectations fulfilled. “Absolutely, 100%. If we think of expanding the dyehouse, without doubt we will again purchase the THEN-AIRFLOW® machines.” Mr. Ajay Doshi is also optimistic about the future, “Here in southern India, we have great potential. The infrastructure is steadily improving and the population is well educated. We still have a lot to learn and must stay on the pace, but if we succeed then everything points to further growth.