Denim Première Vision: A resounding
success in London
Vision held between 5th and 6th December 2018 reported an
increase in visitor numbers by 17 percent, a widely acclaimed
location, the first Denim Première Vision in London, at the Old
Truman Brewery, confirmed the logic behind the show’s
transformation that began last May in Paris.
Closely attuned to the market, Denim Première Vision now
proposes a new event format in terms of experiences and
contents, one exploring the different facets of contemporary
denim, to address the needs of denim brands and creative fashion
brands developing denim collections, from fashion and luxury
brands, to pure jeanswear players, web players and more.
The show is now an itinerant event, organized in alternating,
different European cities with a fashion impact, to provide
industry professionals an opportunity to meet new markets while
discovering new sources of inspiration.
This promise of a global experience attracted over the 2,344
visitors to the London edition. The visitor numbers were up by
17% as compared to November 2017, showing their enthusiasm for
Coming from 54 countries, more than 50 percent were from
countries outside the United Kingdom, confirming the
international vocation of the show. Almost 80% came from Europe,
led by the United Kingdom (47% of visitors), followed by Italy
(+ 69%), Spain (+29%), France (+5% of visitors), Germany (up
18%), the Netherlands (+2%) and Portugal (+22%). In second place
among visiting countries, Turkey also saw a 48% increase in
attendance, despite the political and economic difficulties.
Finally, the U.S., which also numbered among the show’s top 10
visiting countries, nonetheless saw a decline in attendance
(-25%) at the show.
A selective and specialized international offer featuring
developments and innovation from 89 exhibitors selected from
among the most creative, high-quality, and innovative companies
in the global denim industry.
Exclusive and inspiring fashion approach to creating Spring
Summer 20 collections, with a dedicated space - a Denim Trends
Area, seminars, practical workshops. The spring summer 2020
fashion decoding in the SS 20 Denim Fashion Highlights document
can be seen at website.
Following on the warm and positive signals sent by the London
market, Denim Première Vision has announced the dates and
locations of its 2019 events: Milan: Superstudio Piu, 28 and 29
May and London: at the Old Truman Brewery, 4 and 5 December
The Denim Première Vision show alights for the first time in
Italy’s fashion capital next 28 and 29 May 2019, in an aim is to
broaden the business outlook for its partners. The goal of the
show is to touch down above all in mature markets offering denim
professionals new business development opportunities.
Back to London in December 2019
As an itinerant show, Denim Première Vision also intends to
ensure a continuity between its various editions. While the show
turns to new destinations to help businesses invest in new
markets, the challenge also lies in building ongoing
relationships between these various players.
NDL presents new Horizons of Soft Stretch FREEF!T®
At Denim Première Vision, NDL (Navena Denim Limited)
presented new Horizons of Soft Stretch FREEF!T® with patented
LYCRA® Free-fit® Technology.
The patented LYCRA® dual FX® YARNS delivers easy stretch
fabrics that hold their shape with lower compression pressure,
thus offering more comfort than standard stretch fabrics.
Soorty: Cradle to Cradle Certified
Soorty Enterprises Ltd. is one of Pakistan’s leading denim
manufacturers. Soorty’s Cradle to Cradle GOLD CertifiedTM line
offers a wide selection of fabrics ranging from light to heavy
weight in both stretch and non-stretch constructions. All the
raw materials and processes used in the manufacturing of C2C
GOLD range are sustainable and certified.
Collections by Kassim denim, Soorty and
Rajby was founded in 1972 in Pakistan and is now producing
3.2 million meters of denim fabric and 1.5 million garments each
month. The company has installed effluent treatment plants (ETPs)
to minimize soil and water contamination. They conduct regular
energy audits at their washing factory, to take all possible
measures for energy conservation.
Rajby partnered with UNDP and trained hundreds of workers on
skill development and capacity building programs to ensure their
contribution in social development. To ensure effective use of
resources, they have engaged WWF-Pakistan to improve resource
efficiency through various energy improvement programs. They are
using modern tools of sustainability to gauge their performance
through international platforms known as HIGG index -
Sustainable Apparel Coalition (SAC) and Business Environmental
Performance Initiatives (BEPI). They are also a member of BCI.
Founded in 1999, Prosperity Textile is a large-scale
vertically-integrated denim fabric manufacturer, with production
facilities in China and Vietnam. They are members of LYCRA
EXCHANGE, BO, COTTON LEADS and SAC (Sustainable Apparel
Prosperity uses a wide range of sustainably sourced materials
ranging from cotton to TENCEL® lyocell though Repreve®, Sorona®
and Coffee Charcoal.
More than 20% of fabric sales are from sustainable
collections. In terms of production, they apply more
eco-friendly indigo dyeing technologies, lower water and
chemical consumption with lower COD values.
Founded in 1953, ORTA transformed from a spinning and weaving
company to a denim manufacturer in 1985. ORTA started its
sustainability journey at the beginning of 2000 by using organic
cotton. Their sustainability platform Orta Blu was founded in
2010 and they have been an early supporter and adopter of BCI.
ORTA is making a bold commitment to be a leader in
transforming the denim industry with the most advanced natural
technologies. Every fabric is being made using the INDIGO FLOW
process, that is proprietary to ORTA. The INDIGO FLOW is a CLEAN
LABEL PROCESS where it is possible to achieve upto 70% reduction
in water use, better dye penetration, energy saving with a
richer and cleaner look.
Transparency, commitment and trustworthiness are key elements
of ORTA’s philosophy and the main goal is making 100%
transparent production not only in the supply chain but in all
stages of the life cycle. As of AW10/20 collection, they
labelled each and every ORTA garment with a unique QR Code that
provides full transparency in the making of the fabric so that
you can finally monitor and measure the environmental impact.
Lastly, ORTA has also acquired the 3rd party Environmental
Product Declaration (EPD) for four products.
Established in 1987, Advance Denim is one of the leading
Denim mills in China, which is part of several industry
initiatives, such as Cotton LEADS by an alliance of industry
organizations in Australia and the United States of America and
Sustainable Apparel Coalition (SAC).
Advance Denim reports that since 2013, the energy consumption
has been reduced by 31% per yard of production since 2013 and
7.8% reduction in average from 2013 to 2017. Furthermore, water
consumption was reduced by 34% from 2013 to 2017. The
applications of energy-efficient machine replacements and
equipment upgrades have significantly reduced energy consumption
and reduced their carbon footprint.
Furthermore, for cleaner energy and steam, they use good
quality anthracite, which produces no smoke or soot residue. The
low Sulphur and volatile content in anthracite make it a
clean-burning fuel. They cooperate with international suppliers,
universities and standard organizations to develop and set
guidelines for chemical use.
They operate their own Restricted Substance lists (RSL) that
is monitored and enforced through a rigorous system of testing
and verification. All suppliers must comply with the list's
requirements. They provide quality assurance team with hazardous
training which is conducted by professionals. They are also
trained on Oeko-Tex compliant chemicals.
DENISOL® PURE INDIGO 30 liq has been officially launched by
Archroma last month and Advance Denim was the first mill to do
the test. Archroma's new aniline-free indigo dye, Denison® Pure
Indigo 30 liq, reduces risk when producing the traditional,
iconic indigo blue that consumers associate with denim and
A technology applied in order to have low indigo penetration
on the yarn which will be easy to laser and easy to wash
reducing the energy and water consumption during the laundry
Eileen Fisher is an American clothing designer and founder of
the women's clothing brand Eileen Fisher, Inc.
Fisher's designs are characterized by simplicity, and Renew
is more than a take-back and reuse program. It's part of Eileen
Fisher vision for a future without waste and their commitment to
being circular by design.
Here's how it works: For example one can bring back their old
Eileen Fisher clothes and they find them another home or turn
them into one-of-a-kind designs. When the clothes can no longer
be work, they remake them into one-of-a-kind designs and they
save scraps because they're tomorrow's raw materials. Since
2009, the company has taken back 1,000,000 pieces of clothing.
Every day, their recycling centres receive roughly 800 items
of Eileen Fisher clothing. The team checks the quality and
condition of each piece, and then gives it a good as new
cleaning. Clothes that are still in perfect condition are resold
and given a second life. A portion of sales go to programs that
support positive change for women, girls and the environment.
Roughly 25% of the clothes they take back are damaged beyond
repair. Resewing allows the creation of beauty from waste. They
deconstruct Eileen Fisher clothes and cut away any worn or
damaged parts. Next, they stitch the remaining fabric together
to create a unique design that is cut and sewn at their Tiny
Factory in New York. Each limited-edition Resewn piece is cut
and sewn from old clothes and is entirely one of a kind.
THE RESEWN DENIM JUMPSUIT: The resewn denim
Jumpsuit on display was made with 5 pairs of jeans to make one
jumpsuit. They created a technique called "engineered pattern"
which utilizes existing Eileen Fisher patterns as a white canvas
and they engineer new seams in order to fit the inventory they
already have at the factory. The original pattern of this
jumpsuit was a S15 sample that never made it to the line. They
took the pattern and divided into 22 patterns in order to be
able to use their denim jeans to execute them. The scraps from
production will be utilized to create new felted textiles. They
offered this jumpsuit in black and indigo with a size run of XS
THE RESEWN DENIM KIMONO: This Kimono takes 5.5
pairs of jeans to make this kimono. They also utilized the
“engineered pattern” technique. They used the most basic shape
Eileen Fisher has on the line and the true inspiration from her
company “The Kimono” and divided it into 18 patterns to be able
to use their denim jeans inventory. They offer this kimono in
Indigo. light grey and dark grey with a size run of XS-L.
The Resewn Denim Kimono and Denim Jumpsuit made from
old Eileen Fisher clothes.
BERTO Industria Tessile
Berto Industria Tessile was founded in 1887 in Bovolenta, a
small town in the province of Padova, Italy. Over the years,
Berto has distinguished itself in many fields while maintaining
its production in the place where it was founded in 1887.
Innovation, originality and speed have distinguished the
way-of-work of a more than century-long production. Concerning
the environment, they pay great attention to energy recovery, to
constant research of ecological materials, natural processes and
CIRCULAR DENIM: 100% Regenerated Cotton. In
order to become more and more circular, Berto worked with a
supplier that is spinning for them a yarn composed of recycled
materials made exclusively for their own denim fabric
production. Thanks to the regenerated cotton yarn, 65% of the
standard usage in terms of water consumption is saved.
Furthermore, during the indigo dyeing process, a natural and
totally biodegradable sizing is used and lastly, a new
particular finishing process permits saving of 85% of the water
as well as 32% of CO2 emissions per meter of fabric, as compared
to a standard finishing process.
BIO ECO DENIM: 98% Cotton, 2% Elastane. The
INDIGO DYE used for these organic cotton fabrics is NATURAL and
stems from the processing of the leaves of the plant Indigofera
Tinctoria, which is cultivated in South India. The cultivation
of these plants occurs in the total exclusion of harmful
chemicals. The indigo dye is extracted from the leaves through a
process of bio-fermentation in water. The waste material
resulting from this process is used as fertilizer for the soil
itself. These fabrics are GOTS certified and the substances used
in the production process are also approved by REACH.
Established in 1951, Bossa is one of the largest integrated
textile companies of Turkey with its facilities in Adana. Bossa
leads in sustainable production with its concept “Denim is
Reborn in Bossa.”
Bossa works with partners for collection and shredding of old
denim and then creates recycled yarns and fabrics in their own
factory. “We use 1000 denim jeans for producing 2000 meters of
20% recycled denim fabric and help customers calculate the
impact through Life Cycle Analysis.”
As a part of commitment to circular economy, Artistic
Milliners work with I:CO and brand partners to re-use post
consumer waste. Artistic Milliners has its own set-up to recycle
and remake the denim garments. In 2016, 1.4 million jeans were
produced from post consumer waste. With this quantity, the water
savings added up to 13.6 million liters.
Kilim Denim manufactures lovely denim fabrics within the
Re-create collection. The Alliance for Responsible Denim
presented Kilim Denim collection, with organic cotton and cotton
yarns recycled from used denim products with Global Recycled
Standard (GRS) certificate. The denim fabrics made by Kilim are
without chemical finishes, and the brand does not harm health or
nature with its raw material while making no compromise on the
performance of the fabrics.
Artistic Fabric Mills and Garment Industries
Artistic Fabric Mills and Garment Industries is the first
denim mill in Pakistan to receive the Global Recycle Standard (GRS)
certification for its Post-Consumer Waste (PCW) Recycling Plant.
Artistic Fabric Mills and Garment Industries considers
post-consumer recycled denim as a cornerstone that supports a
holistic approach to sustainability in all areas of production,
starting from fibre, fabrics (dyeing, finishing), garments
(energy, chemicals, resource savings).
Era Garment has been dedicated to sustainability in 2013 by
using organic and recycled cotton fabrics. Over the years Era
has worked with several mills that offer post consumer recycled
denim collections. Era’s latest project is the construction of a
‘Sustainable Washing Plant’ to be completed end of 2019. This
Green Factory will allow ERA to use even less water, chemicals
Future of Denim
The future of denim is circular and the post-consumer
recycled denim is a fabric made with less than 5% of recycled
fibres obtained from used garments. Adopting post-consumer
recycled denim will allow the industry to reduce our dependency
on natural resources like raw cotton and decrease the volume of
textile waste ending up in landfills. Additional savings in
water means creating 20% recycle denim saves up to 1500 liters
of water per jeans.
Pakistan Textile Journal
to thank, Dania Asim for her
contribution in compiling the PV Denim exhibitor highlights.