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Estimate of
value-addition in combed yarn production
by Dr. H.R. Sheikh, Professor
Emeritus, Textile Institute of Pakistan.
Value-addition takes place at all stages of the textile chain.
Value is also added during spinning of yarns from natural and
man-made fibres. During the manufacture of carded yarns from
cotton, the usual processes are preparation of homogeneous
cotton mixing, blowing, carding, drawing, roving, spinning and
winding. Spinning Mills equipped with combers also produce
combed yarns. The production of combed yarns is determined by
the capacity of the combing sets which usually comprise of one
pre-comber Draw Frame, one Lap former and either six or four
combers. As compared to carded yarns, the material is also
passed through combing set and additional processes are
performed for combed yarns production. Consequently, the
conversion cost in combed yarn production is higher than that
incurred in the case of carded yarn.
1. Conversion cost
Break-up of the conversion cost of a typical
Spinning Mill comprising of 17280 spindles and producing carded yarns
is given at Annexure No.1
For the production of combed yarns additional
conversion cost will be incurred in combing the material which is
calculated as follows:
1.1. Man-Power Expenses
(i) General Shift:
Head Fitter @ Rs 10,000 per month
Assistant Fitter @ Rs 7,000 per month
Helper @ Rs 5,000 per month
Sub-Total = Rs 22000/-
(ii) Production workers:
3 Drawing Frame Tenters @ Rs 5000 per month each
= Rs 15,000/-
3 Lap Former Tenters @ Rs 5000 per month each =
Rs 15,000/-
7 comber Tenters (for 6 combers /set) @ Rs 5000
per month each = Rs 35,000/-
Sub-Total = Rs 65,000/-
Total Man-Power expenses per month = Rs 87,000
1.2.
Electric Power Expenses
The details of the connected load of a typical combing set are listed
below:

Number of units consumed per month @ 70% Running
Load and 0.85 power factor = 45.16 × 24 ×30 × 0.7 × 0.85 = 19346.54
say 19347 KWH
Electric Power Expenses per month @ Rs 5.50/ KWH
(WAPDA) B-3 TARIFF) = 19347 × 5.50 = Rs 106,408.50.
1.3. Miscellaneous expenses
Consumption of stores, spares lubricants etc. =Rs
8,000/- per month.
Repairs and maintenance = Rs 8,000/-per
month.
Sub-Total = Rs 16,000
Total expenses incurred per month = Rs 87,000 +
Rs 106,408.50 + Rs 16,000 = Rs 209,408.50
Say Rs 209,409
The conversion cost of the Spinning Mill with out
combing set = Rs 17.50 million / month
Cost per Spindle Shift (CPS) = Rs 11.25
The conversion cost of the Spinning Mill with a
Combing set = Rs 17.50 + Rs 0.209 million
Or say = Rs 17.50 + Rs 0.21 million = Rs 17.71
million
Cost per spindle of the Spinning Mill with a
combing set = Rs 11.388 say Rs 11.39
Thus, CPS of the Spinning Mill with a combing set
is higher than that of a Spinning Mill without a combing set by Rs
0.14.
2.0. Cotton cost
At present the staple-wise cotton production in
Pakistan is as follows:
v
Short staple upto 24m.m. (30/32 inch)= 1.25%.
v
Medium staple upto 25.40m.m. (one inch) = 20.75%.
v
Medium Long staple 26.2m.m to 27.8m.m. (1 1/32 to 1 3/32
inch) = 73.00%.
v
Long staple from 28.m.m.to 31.80m.m.(1 1/8 to 1 ¼ inch)
= 5.00%.
It is obvious from the production pattern that
Pakistan does not produce extra long staple cottons measuring 35m.m.
(1 12/32 inch) or higher. The two long staple varieties e.z. K-68
measuring 30.0m.m. (1 6/32 inch) and MS–84 measuring 31.8m.m. (1 8/32
can be spun upto 40 Ne carded and 50 Ne combed yarn counts. However,
the ginning quality of Pakistan cottons is not satisfactory. Admixture
of varieties and grades, variations of fibre properties in each bale,
abnormally high non-lint content, presence of foreign contaminants
such as PP fibre, excessive moisture content prevents the spinning
mills from using these cotton varieties for the production of combed
yarns of fine or super-fine counts.
The textile industry of Pakistan has started the
production of these yarns from American Pima Cotton measuring 35m.m.
(1 12/32) in staple length. Currently, Pakistan is the second largest
importer of American Pima Cotton in the world.
The price of Pima Cotton is reported to be about
75 cents per pound which works out at Rs 3888/- per manmd or Rs 47.25
per pound @ Rs 63 per $.
Assuming 16% noil extraction at the combers and
12% waste extraction at other processing stages in the case of
American Pima Cotton the yield of Yarn would be 72%. The cost of
cotton per pound of yarn is calculated as follows:-
Cost of American Pima per pound = Rs 47.25
Cost of cotton per pound of yarn = 47.25/0.72 =
Rs 65.63
3.0. Production per spindle shift
Assuming that 60 Ne and 80 Ne combed yarns are
being spun from American Pima Cotton, the conversion cost of yarn per
pound can be calculated on the basis of production of yarn per spindle
shift as follow:

4.0 Conversion cost per pound
On the basis of production per spindle shift
(OPS), the conversion cost per pound of yarn is calculated as follows:


5.0. Value-addition
In conclusion, it may be stated that value
–addition in the production of combed yarns of 60 Ne and 80 Ne counts
from American Pima Cotton is very high. In contrast, value-addition
the case of carded yarns of 21 Ne and 30 Ne spun from Pakistani
cottons is very low being only about 65% and 100% respectively.

Acknowledement
Useful technical information from M/S. Umair
yunus, Saqib Ali, Shoaib Rabbani, Imran Tanveer and Salman Amir Ali
Makhani is gratfully acknowledged.
Break-up of Conversion cost
Typical Spinning Mill of 17,280 Spindles
Producing Carded Yarns.
Total Project Cost = Rs 655 million
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